Barcelonetes

MARIE SOPHIE DAUCHEZ (17)

Tanquem aquí el llarg parèntesi sobre La Croix-Rousse històrica, parèntesi necessari perquè els nostres besavis van ser uns canuts més a l'època del canvi de segle, van viure en aquest lloc, van tenir un métier en un d'aquests pisos i van sentir explicar les històries que hem recollit més amunt.

A aquestes alçades és segur que ja us haureu fet una certa idea del barri, que actualment està en remodelació, amb immigrants vivint en els pisos que encara estan fets pols i lionesos benestants instal.lats en els que ja estan restaurats.

Tot passejant-hi es passa per davant del local de Radio Canut, i al cap d'un moment davant la seu del periòdic Écho Canut, tots dos llocs d'estètica okupa. També hi ha la Maison des Canuts, on fan demostracions amb un antic teler per a visitants interessats. Més avall i prop ja del centre de Lyon, es pot travessar el passatge Thiaffait, una monada de passatge neoclàssic on no vivien canuts, sinó soyeurs, ara ple d'aparadors amb moda alternativa, robes de seda de disseny modern i preu alt, molt diferents dels mocadors carrinclons que es venen als turistes al casc antic de la ciutat. Hi ha també la Place Colbert, amb vellets asseguts a l'ombra, on segur que la Marie, el Léonard i la Léona devien passar i repassar, perquè és un dels centres neuràlgics del barri. I també hi ha les interminables pujades, que no són rues, sinó montées: montée de la Grande Côte, montée de Saint Sébastien, montée Neyret, montée des Carmélites, montée de Vauzelles, montée Bonnafous, montée Coquillat, montée Lieutenant Allouche...

La Léona ens n'havia parlat d'aquestes montées, però sense mencionar-les directament, i la besnéta ara que les ha trepitjades ha entès el que deia l'àvia. Ens havia explicat que a Lyon els nens portaven sabates amb soles de fusta i patinaven sobre el gel dels carrers, zis-zas, zis-zas, i que en un tres i no res arribaven a l'escola. Ara que ho ha vist, s'ha adonat que l'àvia feia el ximple per aquestes pentes, i que no fa falta ni gaire sola de fusta ni gaire gel per trencar-se el cap carrer avall.

A la vora de la plaça principal de La Croix-Rousse hi ha le Grand Caillou, una pedra emblemàtica i gegantina de forma arrodonida situada prop d'una de les pujades, sobre la qual s'expliquen moltes històries, i en una altra plaça s'hi pot veure una estàtua, la de M.Chardonnet, baix i grassonet, inventor cap al 1880 de la seda artificial feta de cel.lulosa, el raió. Som a la ciutat de la seda i ens falta encara una altra estàtua, la d'un personatge que ara ja ens és conegut, en Jacquard. En efecte, es troba al bell mig de la plaça gran, amb una inscripció que diu: bienfaiteur des ouvriers.

Comença a (Marie Sophie Dauchez 1) i continua a (Marie Sophie Dauchez 18)

Escrit per Eulàlia Petit el 23/11/2005 | Commentaris (67) | Seguir el fil (TrackBack)

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